Draglist.com Drag Racing

ROFLAMO!!!! , hmmm so you stretched the car ... got to love that .I'm surprised she (your other half ) didn't get to the point of being a SA(smart a**) and say yep he put it in between the trees in the yard and used a comealong to stretch it and its got a glide in it ... I like the Idea of making saddles for the motor . the stock X member is going to stay as its has the lower arms mounted in it.( if i wasn't pushed in the beginning I would have used a strut type sub frame instead and saved 200 pounds ) I was thinking of only going back about 4 inches as the pulleys will be about even with the cross-member , I am ditching the factory core support and making a tubular supports off the the front downs to mount the fenders on (either steel of glass ) ,

The last thing I need is to give her more Smart A** tips!!

Way to go LAURA .. ya got a real keeper Randy

Way to go Laura.

Auhhh Barb ya' beat me to it. But, Way to go Luara Ann E. Way.......

Stimpy, if your cage just clears the back glass and your feet are around the bellhousing,.........move it back another inch. Pretty simple.

Stimpy, if your cage just clears the back glass and your feet are around the bellhousing,.........move it back another inch. Pretty simple.

Lippy if my feet where around the bellhousing like you said that would make me about 8'3" tall with a 56" inseam
and if my underwear acts like a parachute too far back?? ( that's litterally hanging out the laundry during a run ):lol:

I ordered the engine plates Monday hopefully be here Friday ( S&W ) the rear main hoop is almost dead even with the door frame about 30 inches in front of the axle CL , I was trying to keep the stock steering column (for looks as I am keeping the factory dash ) but it looks like I might have to get a aftermarket one to reach back to the seat . otherwise the seat is going to be about a foot in front of it ( oh MR Animal Jim?? is this legal??)

I deserve this headache due to poor planing and not taking my time like I wanted too .

No, no, no Stimpy, Keep moving the engine back further. No driveshaft? Perfect. You'll get it, I got faith in you. If the rear isn't mounted solid, and the exhaust isn't a foot from your face, I can't help you.

Stimpy

that cross member can be cut in between the a-arm mounts....Plate it off and tie into a more forward crossmember (round tubing betweens the frame rails)...Also.....as for the front end mounting......set the fenders in place....bolt the upper and lower attachment points (2 bolts each side) and then make a "mast" for the front of the fenders to rest on the frame horns....fabricate two recievers so that the entire front end can be removed with only a 4 bolt detachment...........

8.90??......Put the motor in the back seat if'n you want to....(any engine location acceptable)

for the steering column......keep the stock set up (if you want to)....put a removable hex adapter there one the end of it...(lke you were setting up a removable steering wheel)........fabricate a short shaft to attach to the wheel mount that extends back as far as you need it to so that you are comfy in the seat.....then attach the steering wheel to that extension......Problem solved

hmmm lippy now you are making me wish that I never got rid of the t-top roof ( the passenger compartment would make one nice roomy engine bay ) I could have saved alot of time by putting the seat in the engine compartment and using the shaker hole in the hood for a observation port.. OK now seriously .. I got the front plate today and the mid plate should be here next week ( they are cutting it tomorrow ) so I figured that i can go back abut 4-6 inches after modifying the firewall , that will give me clearance on the balancer in the front of the motor ( the frame bends down at the 6 inch point so that's as far back as I can go ), without having to cut the crossmember , as for the seat and steering I was going to use a QR on the shaft so I can get in the car with the door X braces in place . thank guys this gives me a better prospective on what to do .